Tips & Tricks Adventure Photography - Part 1
Several Tips for Adventure Photography :
Capture a Moment
Try to capture a moment. Look for an expression or gesture or quality of light that elevates an image beyond the ordinary.
The next time you’re photographing a friend rock climbing, look for the moment when he’s stretching, his knee is up, he’s really going for it. When you are out kayaking, wait until his paddle is down and water splashes across the frame.
If You See It, Shoot It
Don’t spend all of your time and energy trying to get one perfect shot. Experiment and take as many pictures as you can.
If you see something that strikes you, photograph it. You may find that your spontaneous photos are better than the ones you spent a long time composing.
It’s easy to pass by a good shot. You might be out backpacking and think, “Do I really want to stop the group and pull out my camera to take this photo?” You have to. Because you might not see it again.
Back off and Show the Terrain
Don’t set up every picture so that your friends are ten feet [three meters] away from your camera. Get some variety in your shots. Back up and show your surroundings.
Many photographers make the mistake of not getting close enough to their subjects. Take one of your own photographs and draw a circle in the middle of it. Often you’ll find that’s where the real picture is. The rest of the frame is just clutter. To get a cleaner shot, zoom in or move closer.
Watch Your Background
Simple, uncomplicated backgrounds help make a good picture better. Usually, the fewer extraneous people, objects, or colors in the background, the better. Move your camera—or yourself—if you have to.
Try Different Angles
Think about how you would normally photograph a scene. Then shoot it in an entirely different way.
Come up with surprises. Once you start doing that, you open your mind up to new possibilities. You’ll come back with more interesting and creative photos.
Put People in Lanscape
When photographing landscapes, it’s sometimes hard to capture a sense of scale—how big or small that landscape really is.
Think about putting a person in the landscape you’re photographing. Everyone knows how big a person is, so putting one in your shot will illustrate how grand that landscape really is.
Put at Sunrise & Sunset
Professional photographers know that the best time to take pictures is in the hours just before and after sunrise and sunset. Why? The light is at its most dramatic. It lacks the harsh contrasts of midday sun. Low light can be used to evoke a special mood and feel.
Keep Your Camera Still
Carry—and use—a tripod. Tripods keep your images from appearing jittery or shaky, especially when photographing in low light conditions around dawn and dusk—exactly the times you should be taking pictures.
If you don’t have a tripod with you, improvise. Use the crook of a tree, or lay your backpack down on a rock and use that as a base for your camera.
Pushing a camera’s shutter release can cause a camera to shake. So use a cable release, or set the self-timer on your camera. Two seconds should allow enough time for your camera to settle.
Combine Blurring and Sharpness
This technique combines a slow shutter speed (1/15 second or less), panning to follow the motion of your subject, and a short burst of fill flash added during the middle of your exposure. The result will freeze the action of your subject on a blurred background of color and motion.
Blur the Motion
One approach to motion photography is to use a slow shutter speed (try 1/15 second or less) and a tripod. This technique allows you to create a colorful blur of a subject in motion, like a kayaker moving through waves or a mountain biker pedaling through lush forest.
Slow shutter speed is also useful in landscape photography when you want to capture the blur of a stream, waterfall, or other moving water.
Stop the Motion
Another approach to motion photography is to try to stop the action by using a fast shutter speed. A fast shutter speed will freeze motion and capture details—like a kayaker grimacing as he digs into the water.
Get Superclose - Without a Macro Lens
Close-range photography of flowers, insects, and other small details is best accomplished with a macro lens. Their short focal lengths allow you to get close to your subject—effectively filling your frame with a blossom or beetle.
If you don’t have a macro lens and you’re shooting with an SLR (single lens reflex) camera, try this: Remove your lens, turn it around, and place the end where your filters attach snugly against your camera body. Zoom the lens out to 50mm or so.
Do not adjust the lens to focus. Instead, move the camera closer to or farther from your subject until you like what you see.
It’s not a perfect solution, but it can work in a pinch.